Buried in Southern yellow shavings.

Utilitarian does not necessarily mean without care. This bunk bed may be made with 2×4’s and 2×6’s, and pocket screws, but I still have to look at it every day. A few passes with the no.8 transforms each of the endposts from rough and ready, to something a little more refined.

And this is a quick mock-up of the headboard. The footboard will be exactly the same.

I’m still weighing options for connecting the side rails. The original plan calls for hex bolts but that seems a little garish.

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10 Comments Add yours

  1. Jeremy Conrad says:

    Hex bolts in addition to the lap joints? Had you considered doweling any of this? None of the bloggers I follow ever seem to have any interest in dowels. It’s either mortise and tenon or pocket holes. I feel like dowels are strong and simple. Just get a doweling jig – doesn’t cost any more than a kreg jig. Dowel joinery holds up pretty well in the strength tests I’ve seen online – second only to true mortise and tenon, usually. Added benefit is that there are no exposed screws or hardware.

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    1. The big thing for me is that I need to be able to break this down and move it, so the bolts offer me that flexibility. I’ve decided to use some more visually appealing furniture bolts (which I hope to talk about on a post soon) but bolts none the less.

      Dowels certainly have their place though. I’ve gotten to the point where I won’t dismiss things like that off-hand unless I really see them used in a structurally unwise way. I’m a big fan of Miller dowels, too.

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  2. Joe says:

    I like this post. At some point in the next two years I will need to do a similar project. I also want it to be nice.

    I love the home we are in and we plan to age in place here. The only downside is that my daughters bedroom is about two feet in each dimension smaller that I’d like it to be. As such I want to make a desk below and bunk bed above to maximize space utilization. It will also be made out of big box store lumber and likely painted with milk paint.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. It’s all relative, but for me one of the first concerns has become; “does it work?”

      This will work for our space needs, our budget, our time frame and my girls are already talking about painting it blue and decorating the rest of the room with peacocks. I’m all in at this point.

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  3. I feel like you don’t have many options. Threaded inserts with socket cap screws? I’d be hesitant with threading directly into pine given that it’s a bunk bed for kids

    I’ve loved the Miller dowels as of late but the don’t don much for making it knockdown.

    Maybe paint the hex bolts black?

    Sorry man, I don’t much else to add.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Also, I didn’t mean to like my own comment. It’s kinda douchy when on purpose but quite funny when not.

      Obviously I’m not a golfer.

      Like

  4. Just had a thought thumbing through my favorite inspirational catalog: Thos. Moser. How about counterbores, washers, hex bolts, and bolt covers? Maybe something cool with the girls names?? Or whatever you like.

    https://www.thosmoser.com/product/sleigh-bed-curved-footboard/

    Take a look. This might be a good solution.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. If definitely thought about that. Another alternative is some nicer lag screws (maybe countersunk and covered?). SYP taps fairly well, but I wouldn’t bet that against my rowdy brood.

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      1. Right. I’d be hesitant tapping in SYP given your application. You probably already know this but here is a link to nicer fasteners.

        http://www.blacksmithbolt.com

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    2. Oh, I like those bolts for a future project. I think I’ve found some hex cap furniture bolts for this one though.

      Like

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